Saturday, March 5, 2011

Haircuts

Getting your haircut in Thailand is proving to be a bit of a challenge. Gary came home one day and was so proud, "I got my haircut for 60 baht ($2)" I told him it looked like it was a $2 haircut. The girls both tried the salon inside our little community, run completely by Thai woman who speak little english. Apparently the salon is known for cutting off twice as much hair then you request, of course this is a tragedy for a young teenager or preteenager.

So the latest discovery is "Hair by Jib." I have gone there 3 times now and each of the girls have gone once and are pretty happy with their 1/2 inch trims. Jib is a Thai/American, who speaks fairly good english but can't seem to remember me, "just a farong (foreigner)." Jib is a very unique guy/stylist, he takes his work very seriously. He has tatoos completely covering his right arm and most of his left arm. He sports an interesting mohawk and wears a few earrings. I especially like his shorts with socks and black army boots. Of course he doesn't wash or dry my hair, just does the cutting, while sitting on a wheeling stool. He is a man of few words and when he does speak it is broken english and he rarely smiles. I am inferring that he considers his job an art form.

He is not the cheapest salon in our neighborhood, but we can ride our bikes and it is cheaper than a haircut in the States. Hopefully we can convince Gary to go there too. So Jib it is!

Sunday, January 23, 2011

A Wife

Kristy's Post:

A girlfriend and I once agreed that every mother/wife should have their own wife; someone to organize their life, plan the meals, do the grocery shopping, ask how your day was, and some cooking and laundry would be nice. Well, I think I officially have a "wife" of my own. I think I have died and gone to heaven.
I usually leave the house at 6:20 and return between 4:30 and 5pm. When I got home tonight, I was still removing my shoes just outside the door (we are in Thailand) and I was holding my lunch bag. Our mae baan greeted me at the door, said "swadeeka" (hello, how are you?") took my lunch sack and whisked back to the kitchen to finish dinner.
By the time I changed clothes and entered the kitchen she had washed the tupperware from lunch and was working two pots on the stove. The table was set, the fruit was cut for the next morning's smoothie, all the laundry was done and the beds made with clean sheets. Shall I go on?

Many teachers joke and say that the school couldn't expect so much from us if hired help wasn't so inexpensive. Many teachers have more than one person hired, administrators with larger homes have up to 3 people which may include a gardener and someone to clean the pool. Of course most of the families that live in this wealthy community also have a driver; this would include the US embassy employees.
I did have to bite my tongue the other day when our wonderful teaching neighbors who have a four year and are hoping to adopt a baby said that they would have to hire another nanny if when they get the baby....keep in mind they do have one nanny and a cook. :)
Sometimes I think I am living on another planet, but when I return to my home planet, I have to find a big suitcase, because this mae baan is coming with me!

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

We loved Australia

Australia has a lot to offer, but it has its drawbacks. Most notable and inescapable is the cost. Although the Aussie dollar is valued about the same as the American dollar, the cost of goods in Australia is about half again to double the cost in the US. For example, a Kit Kat on sale in a grocery store is $.99. A bottle of beer with your dinner will cost you $6 or $7, a mixed drink $12 to $15.

People in Australia are extremely friendly and easy to strike up conversations with. They always seem willing to give directions, advice, or just chat in a friendly down to earth manner. They are however a little more gruff when working. Waiters, hotel workers, etc. sometimes seem like they are inconvenienced by your presence. Tipping is not customary in Australia, Hmmm. I can tell you it has nothing to do with working long hours. Shops, grocery stores, and hotel desks close as early as 5 or 6 o’clock. Part of this early close feel was because of the Christmas holidays and part of this is my jaded perspective caused by the inability to obtain beer after a day of sightseeing. Beer is only sold in liquor stores, which often closed early.

In the small town of Cairns, pronounced “cans”, the way someone from Boston might pronounce the word cars, was a wonderful botanical garden. We sort of stumbled across it while trying to fill the second half of a day with something to do. Ahnika and Mikayla loved, the flowers and loved taking pictures. There were cacti that grew like vines up the trunks of palm trees, and trees that had trunks and branches covered with huge spikes. And of course a denseness of vegetation that reminded you that this was the tropics.
Just outside of Brisbane was a koala sanctuary called Lone Pine. It started many years back with koalas but is really more of a zoo now, complete with wombats, wallabies, Tasmanian devils, dingoes, emus, birds, and a platypus exhibit. I’m sure I’ve missed some of the wonderful animals on display. Oh! How could I forget, the girls got to see up close and personal, some mating kangaroos. I missed this however, and since no one will describe it to me, I will always wonder how kangaroos do it. I bet you’re wondering too.
The East coast of Australia is dominated by sandstone. Much of this striped rock is quarried to add a beautiful color to the towns and cities. But most important is its erosion to produce mile after mile of long, light yellow sandy beaches. Some are more quiet and secluded, but anywhere near a metropolitan area and you’ve got plenty of people action. The Gold coast beaches are the best because the water is warm enough to stay in as long as you like, yet little chance of death from a box jelly. Near Sydney the water is a little cooler, but nothing like Puget Sound. Bondi beach in Sydney treats male and female the same when it comes to tanning ones breasts.
Some of you old Seattle natives may remember from the TV show Hear Comes the Brides, “the bluest skies you’ve ever seen are in Seattle”. Well, I’ve got to tell you the Australian skies are just as blue and at night the stars are exceptionally bright. It’s quite a contrast coming from Bangkok. On New Years Eve, we were in a small town away from any big city lights and the Milky Way put on a show to rival any fireworks display I have ever seen. I just wish my camping buddies were there to see the Southern Cross as it rose above the horizon and Orion’s Belt almost at the zenith. That alone was worth the price of the plane ticket.

As we came into Sydney, we diverted to the east and spent the day in the Blue Mountains. It was the weirdest thing. Three little tourist trap towns blended together, servicing thousands of people that come there to view the Blue Mountains from three or four easily accessible vantage points and a few miles of trail. It might be comparable to Paradise lodge at Mt. Rainier National Park except more people in a smaller area. The valleys were immense, capped with shear walls. It was a look that said, “impassable.” But somewhere out there we are told, are miles of wonderful trails without the hordes of people. I just wish we had the time to explore it.
Sydney itself was a blast. If you ever go, get a hotel in the suburbs near the train line and do without a rental car. We paid $50 for the whole family to have a pass that let us travel on any train, ferry, or bus. They are all interconnected and allow you to travel anywhere in the city, even to the beaches. No hassles, faster, easy to figure out, and honestly quite fun.
When people think of a postcard view of Sydney, they think of the unique design of the Opera House. Now that I’ve been there, the Opera House is only one part of a triune beauty, which also includes the bridge and the harbor. The bridge adds strength to the scene, while the harbor, with its movements of dozens of passenger ferries, adds some life.
On our last day in Sydney we hopped off the train at Central station in search of Paddy’s market. This is the China town section of the city. Although not as high quality as Pike’s place market in Seattle, it was several times the size, with a large selection and the prices couldn’t be beat. I bought a zip up fleece with an embroidered “Australia” and a kangaroo for 20 bucks.

Twice we visited a revived, old town portion of Sydney adjacent to the bridge and the harbor called The Rocks. It had high quality shopping and great places to eat and drink. On the weekends it had a street fair with wonderful gifts and souvenirs. Preserved in one of the old buildings was a free museum to teach you all about Sydney’s beginnings.

We had a great time in Australia. There is plenty of beauty and plenty to do. We were very fortunate to have 18 days to see most of the eastern seaboard. If the price comes down I think the Wood House would all agree that more exploration is needed.

Sunday, December 26, 2010

SCUBA diving in Cairns

Of all the things in Australia that I thought might kill me I never imagined the possibility that a cyclone might do me in. The last day of our 3-day scuba adventure came to an end a day early. At 3:00 am, cyclone Tasha broke our bow mooring line. The engines were started and the stern mooring line was released so we could get away from the reef and into deeper water. The deeper water couldn’t puncture the hull and sink us like the coral could, but it did have bigger waves. The ride to the leeward side of a large island was like a cheap roller coaster with no inverted maneuvers but plenty of bone jarring action. While behind the protection of the island the storm passed, and as the day progressed we were treated to a nice lunch at a newly renovated resort, but no more scuba diving.
The diving we had the first two days was splendid. We had several guided dives that helped us feel comfortable with our newly acquired skills and allowed us to focus our attention on enjoying the reef and all its wonders. The diving we originally did in Thailand seemed two dimensional, with flat reefs all at one depth. Here the diving took on a third dimension with coral walls that would go down, down, down. We saw some very cool stuff on a night dive including sharks, rays, and sleeping sea turtles. There was one turtle awake and swimming. The guide helped Ahnika and Mikayla scratch it’s back. Apparently turtles like this because our fingernails removed things from their shell that they cant get off themselves. You can imagine how special the girls thought this was.
The first picture shows Mikayla, Ahnika, Gary, and Kristy from left to right. The second picture is a giant clam about 3 feet across. The meat of the clam is white so the colors you see are other organisms living on the clam.
~Gary

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

We've Arrived in Australia!

December 21, 2010
After 4 days in Australia, here are a few words from each of us...

Mikayla:
About a year ago I wouldn’t have imagined that I would be in Australia for my winter break, but here I am! A few weeks ago I wouldn’t have imagined that I would be on a boat, on Christmas day, getting ready to scuba dive in the Great Barrier Reef. And I few days ago I wouldn’t have imagined, even in my wildest dreams, that I would hold a Koala. ☺

Ahnika:
The best perk so far is that they speak English. ☺ After living in a country for 6 months that doesn’t speak my native tongue, I can be fully grateful for that simple commonality. In fact, I could even be considered an Australian here. People don’t question your presence like they do in Thailand.
As my family notices the differences that separate America and Australia, I’m just amazed by all the similarities. Having been in two new countries in the last six months has given me a better perspective of the US. I’m quite the visual thinker, and I have a constant map of the world stored in my head. Now, each time I visualize that map, the US seems smaller, but more accurate in size compared to Asia and Australia.


Kristy:
The English influence in Brisbane was so evident; the Parliament Offices, churches and the architecture of so many buildings. They have recently created a gorgeous river walk full of running/walking paths, markets etc. And even have several city pools “lagoons” along the river, which had many teenagers at all hours. Brisbane is definitely a clean, green and friendly city that one could grow to love, somewhat of a mix between Madison and Portland.
There are showers in almost all of the public bathrooms, even at the airport!
The Koalas were adorable. We all loved watching the moms with their babies. The kangaroos were different than I expected, so incredibly muscular with gigantic feet and LONG nails.


Gary:
So how would you like to go? In Australia, Queensland especially, there are a number of ways. Of the 10 most poisonous snakes in the world, all 10 are in Australia, and several, including the coral snake are in Queensland (northeastern Australia). The most poisonous creature in the world and possibly the most agonizing death occurs at the hands, or better said tentacles, of the box jellyfish. If you’re a James Bond fan you know of the blue ringed octopus, a certain death sentence. You could step on a deadly stonefish (I won’t bother with the neurotoxin details). Lots of very poisonous spiders but probably treatable if you get to a doctor in time. Rip currents drown a few dozen people or more every year. If drowning sounds peaceful, you could always be left on the reef by a dive boat. My favorite demise would be the saltwater crocodile. They live in the estuaries. The largest on record is over 5 meters.
Good ‘ay mates, we’re having a great time down under.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

My first drive

Do you remember what it was like driving for the first time? In case you’ve forgotten and you want to relive it…come to Bangkok and get in a rental car and take a drive to Khao Yai National park. It’s like driving in a car that you are unfamiliar with times ten. Everything is backward, everything! A guy showed up with the rental van at 6:45 am, showed me where to fill with gas, handed me the key and said “I come back at 7 on Monday, you pay me then.”, then walked away. No paper work, no money up front.

As we where about to drive away that morning, I looked up and adjusted the rear view mirror; it just didn’t feel right; all the angles were confusing. We met some friends in our little community Nichada, then started off with a drive through some local streets first. Not so bad, the speeds are slow and I had been on these streets many times in taxis and on my bike. It was also 7:30 am on a Sunday morning so the traffic was light but would grow quickly on this three-day weekend of the Kings birthday.

As we entered the freeway things started getting crazy. Keep in mind this was an 11 person passenger van with curtains covering half of each window behind the driver so the visibility was poor. As I checked my (right) side mirror to merge on this elevated two-lane freeway, a car was passing another on the left at a very high rate of speed. I let him go whizzing by then pulled into the lane. As I brought my attention forward I realized that I hadn’t noticed the onramp was coming to an end. Now my heart was pumping, my hands where clinched and beginning to sweat. I was using every bit of my starbucks double mocha to keep from crashing into someone or something while at the same time trying to keep up with my friend that drives like the Thais. OK, it should be noted that he was from California. But still, California drivers got nothin’ on the Thais.

It wouldn’t be so bad if the speeds where constant and everybody drove in the same direction. Apparently there are no laws that encourage this. Our two lane freeway had sports cars and SUVs going 70 miles an hour in the right lane, while big trucks, scooters, and little Toyota pickups with 10-15 workers in the back, where doing 40 miles an hour in the left hand lane. And then there where the crazy drivers doing 80 plus miles an hour making the others look like ski gates in a downhill race.
The two lane freeway soon gave way to an even more exciting 3 lane (each way) highway that had cars merging and exiting from roadside stands, while about every 2 miles you could expect to see cars from the other side of the highway doing u-turns in front of you, or the cars in your lane slowing down to make a u-turn. Oh, and people drive the other way on the shoulder. If you miss a freeway exit, no problem, just back up until you get to it.

In America we have signs for deer crossings, elk crossings, etc. Keep in mind the damage they can inflict on your car. In Thailand they have signs for elephant crossings. You might as well run broadside into a cement truck. In Thailand the most common animal to cross a highway or freeway is by far the homo sapien. You’ll sometimes see a half dozen of them on a highway median attempting to cross three lanes doing 60 plus mph. Two to four of them will make a break for it while the others, either because they are slower or more cautious will remain behind. As you pass, you glance in the rearview mirror and find yourself half looking for carnage and half hoping they will make it.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

October Break in Phuket: Part 1

Phuket and Coral Island

Left Bangkok on Sat Oct 23 and flew to Phuket, a tropical island in southern Thailand. At the airport we were roped into a “free tour” which sounded too good to be true…and it was. The first part was an island tour on Sunday to “see” the island and a few key tourist traps. However, we managed to squeeze in our first elephant ride.

Phuket
Saturday- arrived at Aquamarine hotel completely impressed or actually in awe of the 4 pools, 2 of which were built in to the side of the hill, with 180 degree views of the sea and complete drop off- straight down. One of these pools was of lap pool length and 3 of us did lap at least twice to an amazing view- absolutely gorgeous. It was hard to keep swimming, just wanted to stop and look at the view.
Sunday-
Glimpsed part of a traditional Thai wedding at our hotel:
Simulated parade of groom to meet his bride’s family in the town center, offering to Budda, traditional attire and during the ceremony 5 orange clad monks were at the front of the room sitting on tables, praying, chanting etc.
Then…. “free tour” of island, included key viewpoints (spectacular) and too many touristy streets, seen by van only, then a trip to a cashew processing plant. Did you know cashews grow outside of a fruit that looks just like a red or yellow pepper? Lots of free samples.
Another stop: biggest jewelry store in the world, somewhat interesting however …we were clearly in the wrong store. We knew it and the sales people knew it.
Next: oyster/pearl showcase where we were educated in the qualities of pearls of all shapes and sizes…again no purchase
One quick stop at a gift store…then…
ELEPHANT RIDE- our first, very interesting! They are truly gentle giants, and were all pets it seemed. Ahnika and Gary lucked out with the famous “Mary” elephant. The guides all just kept calling “Mary….Mary…Mary….” til a guide climbed on-literally by holding onto an ear and climbing up as if rock climbing. The are so darn big! The elephant/guide relationship really reminded me of my sister on her horses- name cooing, scratching and patting. It seemed that they loved their elephants, therefore we are trusting that they are taking good care of them. Did you know that an elephant can eat 300 kilos of food every day?
While riding/guiding Ahnika’s elephant, the guide grabbed a piece of bamboo and fashioned two different rings for her- out of a leaf! Of course she shared one with her sister who was riding a different elephant with her mom.

Returned to hotel, walked down to the beach to have great Thai meal cooked in a hut; don’t really want to know about sanitary conditions in Thailand, just want to eat when hungry.
Then walked back to hotel to attend evening of wedding celebration (we were invited by the groom himself Sat night) more good food. This wedding ended promptly at 10 just after a private fireworks display for the wedding couple.

Monday-
Snorkeling tour- picked up at 7 am, hour long van ride to dock to jump on crowded boat. Beautiful boat ride with free food (thank goodness) to Phi Phi island. Apparently Leo D’Caprio’s movie “The Beach” was filmed here. The color of the water was breathtaking. We were on the boat for quite a while, going all around the island then stopped to snorkel….but only had 45 minutes! (Never referring that tour group to anyone).
So glad I could be with the girls on their first snorkeling adventure- they were squealing with delight! It was very exciting, just not long enough. Long boat ride back- perfect view for reading. Mikayla has started reading the “Clique” series, such high quality literature, it makes her mother so proud.
It was during this boat trip I starting pinching myself to be sure it was all real. We are so incredibly lucky to be going on this adventure as a family.
Ahnika is happy because watermelon is served everywhere and most places will blend her up a watermelon juice- “no problem” or “mai pen rai” in Thai.
Monday evening- just hanging by the pool. However, since we are so close to the equator is completely dark here by 6:15. This is hard to adjust to because it always feels like summer to us so we expect long, northwest, sunlight days until 9pm.

Tuesday-

Did you know you can’t eat a banana leaf? But you can cut them into plate size circles and use them as decorative coasters for various serving pieces. “no eat, just “de-COR-ate” we were told at dinner.
The fruit still amazed us; mangos daily, watermelon juice, dragonfruit, papaya. There was quite a selection every morning at our buffet breakfast. Nice way to start the day, ended Tuesday with 2for 1 drinks at the poolside bar…which were basically fruit and alcohol.